21.45.46.80N 72.13.42.40W.
If you set your course for these GPS coordinates, you will sail right to the South Side Marina on, of course, the south side of Providenciales in Cooper Jack Bay in the Caicos Islands. If you're cruising sailors, you've come to the right place.
Marina are described and advertised in cruising guides. Some marinas call themselves full-service marinas, offering fuel, water, ice, bathrooms and showers, maybe laundry facilities. The fancy ones sometimes even boast of having a swimming pool and a restaurant. But our experience has shown that the reviews and the advertisements are not always entirely truthful. Often, not all the services are available, or cleanliness is a problem, or the facilities need updating or repair. So we weren't sure what we'd find at South Side Marina.
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Conch shells along the walls at the marina |
We decided to take a dock slip there because we needed fuel and someone to service our two Volvo diesel engines and the dinghy engine before we head off to the Bahamas. The cruising guide said South Side Marina was full-service and had a nearby boatyard resources for repairs.
Kent and I set our course for the marina and arrived mid-afternoon, after dodging the coral heads and shallows. The shallow depths as we entered the channel to the marina dipped to a record low for our boat: two feet nine inches on our gauge. Many boats, especially monohulls, wait to come and go from this marina according to the tide schedule so they don't run aground on the way in. The wind was blowing hard and we struggled to dock our boat stern-in. However, there were two dock hands ready to take our lines and help us dock securely without incident.
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That's us |
It turned out that the dock hands were Bob Pratt, the marina owner and manager, and his assistant, Julien, who multi-tasks as "dock hand, fuel operator, landscape maintenance operator." Julien comes from Haiti originally but has lived in the Turks and Caicos for several years.
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Bob Pratt, owner, manager, tourist guide, go-to guy at the marina |
We were also greeted by one of the marina dogs, a gold retriever and German shepherd mix, Gemma. Gemma, we were told, is the enthusiastic "welcome dog." Her job is to be the first to greet new arrivals and find out if "by happy chance, they have children or dogs on board." Effie, a yellow lab and German shepherd mix, came by later to introduce herself to Trooper. She is "senior dog and perimeter guardian." Dogs are very welcome here and Trooper is delighted. Both dogs like to hang out at the bar with the cruisers, hoping for a handout at the Wednesday night BBQ. Gemma in particular, is a big beggar!
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Effie |
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Gemma |
We got a warm welcome from Bob Pratt at the dock. Bob, a Canadian who has lived in Providenciales for over 40 years, is always smiling, friendly, and always helpful. He brought us a brochure about the marina and services and resources available. It states that it is a marina "managed by cruisers, for cruisers" and "a small but very friendly marina" where "you may get your questions answered 24/7." And really, it turned out that that's what made our stay in the marina so nice. Kind of like Welcome Wagon on the sea.
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At the dock, looking one way |
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At the dock, looking the other way
For those of you who read a previous post about the lovely gangway we discovered in our lazerette, we used it at the dock here. It makes it so much easier for us and our guests to board and disembark. |
The brochure describes the marina services as usual, plus welcomes cruisers in a big way. All the services and other resources listed are geared towards the needs of cruisers. It has a directory of shops, salons, medical and dental resources, marine and hardware supplies, veterinary services, dive shops, car rentals, and airline information. Very few marinas have a guide of this sort, providing compiled information like this. Island magazines are distributed with information on all the restaurants and things to do on the island. Bob is like a tourist guide, full of information, handing out maps.
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Bob's brochure |
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Maps and magazines are included in
Bob's welcome package for cruisers |
He designed and built a lovely bar on the premises, Bob's Bar, and schmoozes with all the cruisers. It's just up the little hill next to Bob's house with a view overlooking the harbor. His office assistant doubles as the bartender. It's a friendly meeting place for the cruisers in the evenings.
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The plaque outside Bob's Bar |
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The odd assortment of decorations hanging from the ceiling in the bar |
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Bob's Bar, a short climb up the stairs |
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Handmade ceramic pots from the Dominican Republic are lit
from within and scattered on the posts in the bar area |
There is also a gazebo with twinkly lights in front of the dock where cruisers are encouraged to gather. It's complete with power outlets so cruisers may work at their laptops or use the Internet outside. We were grateful to have good, fast wifi available around the clock at the marina. Most marinas have wifi available but it is often unreliable and SLOW. Also, if you'd like to have the use of a cellphone for local use, Bob will lend you one for a small fee.
There is even a cruisers exchange library (take a book, leave a book). And laundry facilities, although we use our own washing machine onboard.
We like our neighbors at the dock, all of whom whom we met later at Bob's Bar...
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Ever After, a 45-foot center-cockpit Hunter |
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Serenity, a 35-foot Jeanneau |
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Honeymoon Forever, a 45-foot center-cockpit Hunter |
Every Wednesday night, Bob hosts a BBQ in his bar, where cruisers bring a dish to share. Local ex-pats come too. Bob supplies the ice cream. All the cruisers come and everyone meets everyone. It was dusk, so the pics are a little dark. It was fun to trade stories and "boat cards" with the other cruisers. Most cruisers carry boat cards with them, with the name of the boat, names of the cruisers, and phone and email. Sometimes a picture. Cruisers trade them and keep track of each other on websites, blogs, Facebook, etc. We have a card too, and we're building a nice collection of cards from other cruisers.
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I found a handsome sailor to take me to the cruisers' BBQ |
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Sailor's version of watermelon salad |
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Bob's Bar, hangout and meeting place for locals and cruisers |
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Virginia and Robert, from Florida, live-aboards on Honeymoon Forever |
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Jules and Frank, from Arizona, live-aboards on Ever After
(their dinghy is named Happy) |
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Will, left, and Guillaume, from France, enjoying a
9-month sail in the Caribbean on Serenity |
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I just love those ceramic pot lights! |
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Night bocce ball at the BBQ |
Bob is the island's popular host of Cruisers Net radio broadcast every day 7:30 a.m. on Channel 72. He is full of weather information and news pertinent to the island and the areas around it. He is the cruisers' go-to person for weather updates and will help you decide when it's best to make the next leg of your voyage.
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Listening to the Cruisers Net broadcast on our radio each morning |
If you need a rental car, Bob will arrange to have one come to you at the marina. If not, Bob drives into town every day at 12:30 p.m. and offers a ride to anyone who needs it. He'll take you to the supermarket, marine store, wine shop, the bank or ATM, completely free of charge. We asked him for a restaurant recommendation for dinner and he drove us to the restaurant that evening, free of charge. We asked him about getting a taxi home, and he explained where to get one. Kent realized he had only a little cash, and Bob loaned us $200 out of his own wallet, which of course we paid back the next day.
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Paula, happy sailor, having breakfast in our outer salon |
By the way, the local Italian restaurant that Bob recommended, called Baci, was fabulous. It was right next to Turtle Cove Marina and we ate outdoors with a lovely view of the boats. We shared a Caesar salad, then I had veal scallopini marsala and Kent had mushroom ravioli. Delicious. We cleaned our plates! Sorry the pictures are so dark.
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Kent at Baci |
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Baci Italian Restaurant |
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Dining al fresco by Turtle Cove Marina |
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Veal scaloppini marsala |
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Mushroom ravioli with goat cheese |
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Bad selfie |
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Baci |
After our dinner, we walked down the street to the casino, where the doorman called a ride for us. The driver usually shuttled guests between their resort and the casino but he agreed to take us to the marina. He is a retired professional international basketball player and we really enjoyed hearing about how he came to settle in Caicos. He dropped us right in front of our boat, then refused to take payment or a tip!
Our trip to the supermarket the next day was a wallet-opener. The market was very clean and had lots of choices, very much like a high-end American market. The prices were very high. $17 for a large pack of toilet paper. $9 for a small package of goat cheese. We needed to provision meat, fish, fresh vegetables and fruit, and paper goods for our next crossing. Our bill at the register was almost $400. Yikes!
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$66.99 for a six-pack of special Guinness |
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$24.99 for a bottle of Yellow Tail |
Luckily, we didn't need to purchase any wine, beer or liquor!
Kent mentioned to Bob that we needed our engines serviced. We also needed to have someone look at our Honda dinghy engine, which cuts out when least convenient, i.e., when we are crossing to shore! Bob found us a great local mechanic, who offered to drive Kent to the marine store to pick up the oil and products we needed. The boat engines were serviced . The dinghy engine needs more work and we are waiting for that work to be completed at the boatyard.
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Peering into the black hole--one of our engine rooms--
a tight space for a big guy to get into! |
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Checking out the dinghy motor |
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You can't hear the noise of the compressor but the oil is
actually being blown out of our engines to change the oil |
A few more pics of our dock surroundings...
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The dive shop |
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Tanks from the dive shop |
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A $2M boat which ran aground speeding through Molasses Reef
six months ago is docked next to us. The reef is a conservation
area and criminal charges have been filed against the captain. We're
told that the damage is irreversible. It may be sold for scrap,
even though it's pretty new. |
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The damaged propeller from the yacht after getting
hung up on Molasses Reef |
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The Sea of Love is now out of commission |
Will and Guillaume were the first of our cruisers' group to depart South Side Marina. They sailed off on Serentity for home, France, expecting an uneventful 21-day sail across the Atlantic Ocean. We all went down to their boat to say goodbye and to help them with dock lines. Bon voyage, Serenity!
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Provisioned and ready to go |
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Goodbyes are happy, wishing good seas and safe travel |
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Serenity is off to France! |
The next day, Frank and Jules sailed off to the Dominican Republic. We are very sorry to see them go! We enjoyed their company and friendship, and hope to stay in touch.
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Ever After sails off to the Dominican Republic |
A day at the beach swimming and snorkeling with friends Robert and Virginia, on Honeymoon Forever...
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The Creature from the Aqua Lagoon |
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There's a nice protected reef here for snorkeling |
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Soaking up the sun |
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Ultra-soft white powdery sand |
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Kent and Robert |
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Beach near Turtle Cove |
Bon voyage to our friends Robert and Virginia on Honeymoon Forever as they head to the Dominican Republic...
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Untying the dock lines |
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Back 'er out |
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Safe crossing, Honeymoon Forever! |
We are shooting for a Tuesday departure to Mayaguana on the eastern edge of the Bahamas. About 50 miles from Providenciales, Caicos. Getting closer to the U.S.!
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