Monday, April 17, 2017

Life Without Shoes in the Abacos

Kent and I sailed Bangarang from Florida to the Bahamas in December and have spent the winter months in the Abacos. The Captain and I have enjoyed every minute. We've based ourselves in Marsh Harbour but we've sailed around, anchored off, docked at, ferried to, and explored Great Abaco and many of the outlying cays here, including Great Sale, Manjack, Green Turtle, No Name, Great Guana, Man O War, Elbow, Tiloo and Treasure. Each cay (pronounced like "key") has its own personality but they all share the gorgeous turquoise Bahamian waters, historic settlements, white sand beaches, sea life, wildlife, shells, sunrises and sunsets. Kent and I visited a few of these cays as we sailed here from Florida, but our stays were brief (typically only one night) as we passed through on our way to Marsh Harbour. Now that we've had a chance to explore Abaco and the outlying cays, here are some highlights...

(This is a long post with lots of photos. Read when you have time!)

 
Meet "Showboat" at his conch stand in Marsh Harbour, 
where he makes delicious fresh conch salad to order. 

 
Showboat is ready to put on his show...

 
He starts by hammering a spot on the shell and cutting
out the conch. 

 
Then he trims the conch down to the yummy white meat.

 
He scores and chops the conch meat, then combines it
with diced tomato, green pepper, onion, and some 
cucumber. Showboat tops it off with a little salt, lime
juice, orange juice, and his secret hot and spicy marinade. 

 
We like Showboat's fresh conch salad with crackers for 
lunch. Yum!

 
Our anchorage just outside Hope Town on Elbow Cay.
That's the historic Elbow Cay Lighthouse off our bow.
Built in 1836, it is 89 feet tall and is one of two hand-
wound kerosene-burning lighthouses still operational
in the world. Kent and our friend Linnea enjoyed the 
view from the top, but alas, my fear of heights kept 
me at ground level.


Yikes, what is that? It's a 7-foot nurse shark looking
for a handout! The shark circled Bangarang a few
times during our stay. Apparently, he's the
neighborhood moocher. 

 
A view of the lighthouse in Hope Town from the 
Hope Town Inn & Marina

 
A stroll through Hope Town

 
A typical view of Hope Town from the harbor's edge

 
Hope Town Harbour Lodge, where you can eat lunch
with a view of the Atlantic, swim in the ocean, then
take a dip in the pool.

 
Fresh fish, anyone?

 
A rental villa in Hope Town

 
An example of the wooden boats still being hand-crafted
by local boat builders in Hope Town.


A visit to the lighthouse

 
The lighthouse lenses

 
The shells and sea life in the Abacos are beautiful. A 
walk on any beach here is filled with discovery. Here's a
helmet conch. 


The colorful sea urchins and the bleach-white sea
biscuits collected among the sea grasses are my favorites. 

 
Wild horses inland on Great Abaco

 
Top shells

 
Little starfish

 
Queen conch

 
A live starfish underwater

 
Brain coral

 
A welk we found wading in the shallows at Manjack Cay.
Huge! We just couldn't allow ourselves to take him for
supper when he was so large and obviously old. Back into 
the Sea of Abaco he (she?) went!


A crab on the rocks on Manjack Cay

 
Trooper running along the beach at Manjack Cay

 
As we waded in the shallow waters at Manjack Cay, the
stingrays circled around us. It's a popular spot where
visitors come to feed them and some even try to pet them. 

 
It's both a thrill and a bit creepy to see and feel them 
glide silently and smoothly around your legs!


A very bright moon is peeking out over Manjack Cay

 
I have to include some pictures of the wild pigs on 
No Name Cay, where boaters bring them food. 


When we were there, we saw at least two dozen of them, 
including some cute little piglets.  

 
Snort, snort!

 
They really are pretty adorable. 

 
They love to swim and often swim up to the boaters, 
knowing there is food coming. 

 
The pigs are known to be somewhat tame but many 
weigh about 200-400 pounds, so I keep my distance!

 
A big welcome for visitors at Green Turtle Cay

 
A view of the Bluff House on White Sound at 
Green Turtle Cay

 
The Albert Lowe Museum on Green Turtle Cay

 
It's not Whole Foods or Mariano's but it's a
surprisingly well-stocked grocery on Green Turtle Cay!

 
"Ye Olde Gaol" in New Plymouth on Green Turtle Cay. 
A close look at the historic jailhouse and out buildings
would be enough to keep you on the straight 
and narrow here in the old days. Built in mid-1800s. No
wonder there isn't any crime here to speak of in this
community of just 500 residents!

 
Green Turtle Cay

 
Beautiful tropical flowers everywhere

 
Green Turtle Cay

 
I think these are Plovers--very common to the Abacos

 
We anchored in Black Sound at Green Turtle Cay
in front of the yacht club.

 
Lunch poolside at the Leeward Yacht Club

 
One of the most gorgeous beaches at Treasure Cay

 
My next ride!

 
Anchored off Treasure Cay in glistening waters

 
Candlelight supper with our shell collection, which
seems to grow by the day. Gotta control myself!

 
Supper: spiny lobster on the BBQ

This blog got so long. And I didn't even get a chance to include our sails to Tahiti Beach, Tiloo, Man O War Cay, Sandy Point, or Little Harbor! Thanks for sticking it out and taking an interest in recent highlights of our adventures!